Here's your custom paint guide
Before any project, take these things into account to get the best results:
- Factor in enough time for each stage of your project so you don't have to rush.
- Always check the weather while planning your project. Temperature, humidity and dew point affect the quality of your work.
- Check you have all the equipment, tools and products you need.
- Ensure you read all the information in the health and safety tab above.
Equipment we recommend for this guide
- Goggles
- Palette knife, spreader or small trowel
- Sanding paper 80 - 180 grit (various grades for filler application)
- Sanding paper 120 - 180, 320 - 400 grit (various grades for primer application)
- Sanding paper 280 - 400 grit (various grades for undercoat application)
- Sanding paper 320 - 400 grit (various grades for topcoat application)
- Paint roller tray
- Paint rollers (suitable sizes and types)
- Paint brushes (suitable size)
- Tack rag or lint free cloth
- Safety shoes
- Face dust masks
- Hand protection (as per product SDS)
- Overalls
- Sanding machine and/or suitable sanding blocks
- Eye protection
- Specialized cleaning product
Your health and safety
Your safety is of the utmost importance to us. Ensure that you read and follow all label instructions and the safety datasheet before starting your project. Also:
Ensure the area you are working in is properly ventilated.
Ensure all products are kept out of reach of children during storage and usage.
Ensure solvent fumes and any splashing of material will not affect others nearby.
PPE (Personal Protective Equipment)
Before you begin, always refer to the label and safety datasheet for product specific information. Using the right PPE for your project is important to ensure your safety. You should always check the information from the PPE manufacturer to ensure you use the correct items for your working conditions.
Wear safety glasses at all times to protect your eyes from splashes.
Chemicals can cause skin irritation. Wear overalls and protective gloves to protect your skin and clothing.
To avoid inhalation of dust while sanding; wear a dust mask at all times.
Many products contain either solvents or other chemicals that can build up in confined areas creating a hazard and/or an unpleasant working environment. Wear suitable respiratory protection if ventilation is not sufficient or if required by the safety datasheet to do so.
See the protective equipment overview for further information.
We care deeply about the environment and we want to ensure that our products are disposed of in the correct way. With that in mind, please:
- Always refer to the product label and safety datasheet for any specific instructions.
- Ensure any waste product including cans, rags, brushes, roller sleeves masking tape and paper, gloves and overalls are disposed of according to local regulations.
- Do not allow any waste material such as unused paint to enter any waterways.
- Ensure waste and empty containers are disposed of in accordance with local legislation guidelines and national regulations.
For more information or any special waste regulations, please contact your local waste regulation authority.
Step 1 Cleaning painted wood
1.1 Mask off
- Mask the repair area to protect the surrounding surface.
1.2 Rinse
- Rinse with fresh water to remove loose dirt or any attachment on the surface.
1.3 Degrease
- Degrease the surface with a specialized cleaning product. Use a soft sponge to work the product onto the surface.
1.4 Rinse again
- Rinse the surface well with plenty of fresh water to remove the cleaning product including the solvent impurity.
- Allow the surface to dry.
- To tell if the surface is properly degreased, the water should spread across the surface while flushing. Small droplets of water are an indicator that the surface isn’t fully degreased. If so, repeat the cleaning process.
- Masking the surrounding area helps to prevent contamination spreading to other surfaces.
- Bucket
- High pressure washer
- Extension for cleaning tool
- Sponge and/or cloths
- Rubber gloves
- Safety shoes
- Overalls
- Eye protection
- Specialized cleaning product
Step 2 Sanding paint / varnish in bad condition on wood
2.1 Remove flaking paint
- Remove all paint or varnish in bad condition. This could mean that you’ll have to remove all the paint or varnish down to bare substrate. It’s ok to save any layers (of paint) that are in good condition. Any varnish that is left may lead to differences in the appearance in the final varnished area.
2.2 Complete repairs
- If sanding to bare wood use 80-180 grit paper on the bare surface and increase the sand paper grit in increments of 100 to create radius rings until final sanding of the surrounding coatings is completed with 280 grit. If the damage is only superficial, start with 180-220 grit and work with gradually finer grade up to 280 grit to achieve a smooth transition to the good area.
- Single pack paint must only be repaired or overcoated with other single pack paints.
2.3 Remove rotten or weathered wood
- If you have weathered or rotten wood, make sure you replace all wood that’s in bad condition.
2.4 Sand primer
- If the primer/undercoat layer or existing varnish is still in good condition, it can be left on the surface. Sand with 280 grit and apply new fresh undercoat or varnish to achieve a good surface for the final finish.
- Single pack paint must only be repaired or overcoated with other single pack paints.
2.5 Final sanding
- Any bare wood should be sanded with 80-180 grit to help the paint scheme adhere to the surface. For a varnish scheme, sand in the direction of the grain with 180 grit to minimise sand scratches showing through.
2.6 Remove particles
- Remove sanding residues with clean compressed air or vacuum cleaning.
2.7 Clean surface
- Wipe the surface with a suitable thinner immediately before painting to remove any final particles. It’s important that the thinner has fully evaporated before you apply any paint. You can also use a tack rag.
- Always sand along the grain as sanding across it can cause scratches that will show through in the final finish.
- The paint or varnish can be removed using a paint stripper or by sanding with 120 grit. 2- pack products in bad condition need to be removed by sanding.
- To avoid sanding marks showing through the final paint film, start with a coarser paper and then change to a finer grade. Don’t jump more than 100 grades in one go. This is especially important when painting darker colours, as the sanding marks will show through more easily.
- Be careful you don’t sand over sealants around the windows or fittings, as the sealant can contaminate the surface. Cover these areas with masking tape before sanding.
- Vacuum cleaner (or compressed air)
- Cleaning thinner
- Sanding paper 80 - 280 grit (various grades for surface preparation)
- Rubber gloves
- Dust mask
- Tack rag or lint free cloth
- Overalls
- Sanding machine and/or suitable sanding blocks
- Eye protection
Step 3 Applying primers
Priming is a vital part of the painting process as it’s the base on which the rest of the system will be applied. If the base isn’t good and sound, then the overall system won’t be either.
Important note relating to filling and fairing: If you are intending to carry out any filling and/or fairing work please read the following note very carefully.
On all bare substrates a coat of primer MUST be applied before proceeding with any filling and/or fairing. Once this work has been completed then the second and subsequent coats of primer should be applied before proceeding with application of the rest of the chosen above or below waterline system.
3.1 For small repairs
- Use a suitable sized brush or roller to suit the size of the repair area.
- With any repair, the area to be repainted will need to be larger than the original damage so the paint system can be transitioned gradually to ensure a smooth surface.
- As a general rule, each layer of paint should overlap the previous coating by 5%-10%. Start by painting the affected area and move out, following the application steps below.
3.2 Mask off
- Mask off any areas that are not going to be painted such as the waterline with suitable masking tape.
3.3 Mixing
- Single pack products:
- With single pack primer mix the paint thoroughly with a stirring stick ensuring that any settlement is well mixed in.
- With single pack primer mix the paint thoroughly with a stirring stick ensuring that any settlement is well mixed in.
- Two pack products:
- If you are using a 2 pack primer, mix the individual components thoroughly.
- Combine the two products and mix the paint thoroughly as indicated on the datasheet or the label on the can.
- If you are using a 2 pack primer, mix the individual components thoroughly.
- In some instances, it's necessary to add solvents such as to aid application or improve penetration of the first coat on wood. For the recommended solvent and the amount you need to add, please refer to the datasheet or the label on the can.
3.4 Application
- Pour the paint into a clean roller tray or paint pot.
- Start somewhere where any application overlap will be less noticeable such as on the bow or the corner of the transom.
- For large surfaces, it's advised to use a roller as it's quicker and will achieve a uniform finish.
- If you’re applying product with a brush, a good technique is the criss-cross method.
- Paint is applied to the surface with diagonal brushing from left to right. It’s then spread further with horizontal strokes before finally laying off with light vertical strokes. This applies a uniform layer of paint and allows the brush marks to flow out better.
- Apply sufficient paint for the product to flow, but not so much to make it sag or run as it can be hard to remove them later. If you do see any sags or runs, brush them out as soon as possible.
3.5 Overcoating
- Most products will require more than one application or coat as per datasheet or label on the can.
- If any filling is required this should be done after the first coat of primer is applied.
- If additional coats are required, follow the recommended overcoating times as per the datasheet or label on the can.
- Most primers have extended recoat times, so you can apply the required number of coats without having to sand in-between. If you exceed the maximum overcoating time, you will need to sand the surface with 120-180 before applying the next coat.
- Product performance is based upon the film thickness, so please make sure the recommended number of coats are applied.
3.6 Final sanding
- Once all the primer coats have been applied and cured, sand the entire surface using 180 - 240 grit paper. Make sure you don’t expose any substrate. If you do, you’ll need to re-prime those areas and feather the edges back in once it’s cured to avoid the edge of the patch showing through to the final finish.
3.7 Clean surface
- Dust down with a lint-free cloth or suitable tack rag.
- If there is any risk that the surface has been contaminated with oil or grease (e.g. fingerprints), wipe with a suitable thinner prior to applying the undercoat.
Working with a roller:
- Applying paint with a roller is a fast method of covering large areas.
- For most applications, a 5-6 mm nap felt or mohair roller is suitable. Before using them, wrap masking tape around a new roller and then pull off to remove any loose fibres.
- If you're trying to achieve a smoother finish, you could use a high density closed cell foam roller. This may lead to a thinner coat of product, so you may need to apply an extra coat.
- Some rollers may be affected by solvents in the product and can swell during use. When they become too soft to use, or look like they are breaking up, replace them with a new one.
- When using a roller and tray, it’s a good idea to keep the tray covered loosely to avoid the wind, sun or air creating a skin over the paint during use.
- If the area to be painted is very small you can obtain smaller rollers from various hardware stores. Some are often called radiator rollers that are very good for small and difficult to get to areas.
Working with a brush:
- Brushes should be medium to large width typically 75-150mm with long flexible bristles.
- A smaller brush will be used for painting difficult to reach areas.
- Wash your brushes with the appropriate solvent and dry them thoroughly before using to avoid contamination.
- The quality of brushes required for priming is less critical than those used for applying undercoats or finish coats.
- To minimise brush marks hold the brush at a 45 degree angle to the surface.
- To clean brushes, place some thinner inside a suitable container so you can clean it if the bristles start to clog due to curing or thickening of the paint.
Other useful tips:
- If you’re getting runs as the paint is applied, then it’s either too thin, or you’re applying too much.
- Avoid using paint directly from the can as this might introduce contamination and prematurely age the paint from solvent evaporation. Instead, pour what you’d expect to use in 30 minutes into a separate container.
- Old jam jars or clean dry tin cans are useful for mixing paint. Also, metal measuring spoons of various sizes you can buy from any supermarket, are ideal for measuring small quantities of paint and hardener for the smaller jobs.
- For primers that you’re applying with antifouling, you need to ensure that the interval time between the end of the application of the epoxy primer and the first coat of antifouling is no longer than stated on the datasheet or label. This is especially true with epoxy based primers. If you miss this interval, you’ll have to either sand the primer or apply another coat and ensure you don’t miss the overcoat interval the second time around.
- If any of the applied coats develops runs or sags (or has contamination in it) that you need to sand out, use 120-220 grit paper. Start with 220 grade and if it keeps clogging change to 120. Any coarser and you run the risk of removing too much product and/or sanding through to the substrate.
- Sanding paper 120 - 180, 320 - 400 grit (various grades for primer application)
- Paint roller tray
- Paint rollers (suitable sizes and types)
- Paint brushes (suitable size)
- Tack rag or lint free cloth
- Safety shoes
- Face dust masks
- Hand protection (as per product SDS)
- Overalls
- Sanding machine and/or suitable sanding blocks
- Eye protection
Step 4 Applying fillers and epoxies
If you’re doing repair work, carefully inspect for any damage including fine cracks and any material that’s poorly adhered. Small repairs and filling on new boats can be easily tackled. However, any work that’s over a larger area or might affect the structure or hull integrity, should be referred to a professional for proper assessment.
It's recommended to apply a layer of primer before application of filler. Please see step relating to the application of primer.
Important note relating to filling and fairing: If you are intending to carry out any filling and/or fairing work please read the following note very carefully.
On all bare substrates a coat of primer MUST be applied before proceeding with any filling and/or fairing. Once this work has been completed then the second and subsequent coats of primer should be applied before proceeding with application of the rest of the chosen above or below waterline system.
4.1 Mask off
- Mask off any areas that are not going to be painted such as topsides on the waterline with suitable masking tape.
4.2 Mixing
- Most fillers used in the marine environment are two pack epoxy based fillers. For more specific information, please refer to the datasheet or the label on the can.
- Two pack products:
- Measure out part A and part B onto a clean mixing board using the specified mix ratio.
- Using a palette knife or spatula, mix the two components together until you achieve a uniform colour with no streaks.
- Measure out part A and part B onto a clean mixing board using the specified mix ratio.
- To maximise the working time of the product, spread it out over the mixing board to prevent it curing too quickly.
4.3 Application
- The best way is to apply filler using a palette knife, spatula or any other suitable tools in smooth, thin layers. Try not to apply too much in one go. You may need to apply multiple layers.
- Allow it to cure following the instructions on the datasheets or label.
- When carrying out any filling work, the edge of all the areas filled should be well chamfered/beveled to at least a 6:1 ratio. For example, if you have a depth of 5mm to fill, the edge needs feathering back at least 30 mm before being primed and refilled.
4.4 Sanding
- After the filler has been applied and has cured, you need to smooth the surface using a sanding block that will ideally be larger than the filled area. The larger the filled area, the larger the block will need to be to sand it.
- Initial sanding can be completed with 80 grit. If additional filler needs to be applied, remove the dust from the surface and follow the previous step. Once the surface is smooth and no more filler is needed, final sanding can be completed with 120-180 grit.
4.5 Clean surface
- Wipe the surface with a suitable solvent immediately before painting to remove any final particles. It’s important that the solvent has fully evaporated before you apply any paint. You can also use a tack rag.
4.6 Overcoating
- Apply additional coats of primer over the filler and surrounding area.
- Most primers have extended recoat times, so you can apply the required number of coats without having to sand in-between. If you exceed the maximum overcoating time, you will need to sand the surface with 120-180 before applying the next coat.
- Epoxies must be mixed in the proper ratio. Add too much curing agent and they will leave a sticky film on the surface that’s not suitable for overcoating. Too little curing agent will weaken the filler and cause it to crumble later on.
- When measuring out epoxy filler that has to be mixed 2:1 by volume, the easiest way is to measure out three equal volume piles (2 of the base and 1 of the curing agent/hardener) rather than trying to gauge if one is twice the other.
- Metal measuring spoons of various sizes that you can buy from the supermarket, are ideal for measuring small quantities of product.
Above the waterline, epoxy fillers must be used. Polyester or car fillers should not be used as they have a greater tendency to absorb water or solvent. - Never add thinners to fillers as this will seriously affect the integrity of the cured product.
- Old plastic credit cards make excellent application and smoothing tools for smaller areas of filler.
- When sanding fillers, it’s very easy to inadvertently sand surrounding areas forming a lower area that will show right through to the finish. Be careful to avoid this.
- Rubber gloves
- Goggles
- Palette knife, spreader or small trowel
- Sanding paper 80 - 180 grit (various grades for filler application)
- Face dust masks
- Overalls
- Sanding machine and/or suitable sanding blocks
Step 5 Applying undercoats
Undercoating requires more care and attention than priming as the aim is to apply an even overall coat with the smoothest possible finish so that when sanded back, you don’t sand through to the primer.
5.1 For small repairs
- Use a suitable sized brush or roller to suit the size of the repair area.
- Small areas less than about credit card sized can be primed using scrap pieces of suitable foam or a foam brush and dabbing the primer on and using a new piece for each subsequent coat.
- With any repair, the area to be repainted will need to be larger than the original damage so the paint system can be transitioned gradually to ensure a smooth surface.
- As a general rule, each layer of paint should overlap the previous coating by 5%-10%. Start by painting the affected area and move out, following the application steps below.
5.2 Mixing
- Single pack products:
- With single pack undercoats mix the paint thoroughly with a stirring stick ensuring that any settlement is well mixed in.
- With single pack undercoats mix the paint thoroughly with a stirring stick ensuring that any settlement is well mixed in.
- Two pack products:
- If you are using a 2 pack undercoat, mix the individual components thoroughly.
- Combine the two products and mix the paint thoroughly as indicated on the datasheet or the label on the can.
- If you are using a 2 pack undercoat, mix the individual components thoroughly.
- In some instances, it's necessary to add solvents such as to aid application or improve penetration of the first coat on wood. For the recommended solvent and the amount you need to add, please refer to the datasheet or the label on the can.
5.3 For small repairs again
- When applying the undercoat, apply the first coat over any exposed primer.
- Then apply the following coat(s) beyond each previous coat.
- Once the undercoat has cured, sand the surface using 320 grit paper. Make sure you don’t expose any primer. If you do, you’ll need to re-undercoat those areas and feather the edges back in once it’s cured to avoid the edge of the patch showing through to the final finish.
5.4 Application
- Pour the paint into a clean roller tray or paint pot. Two pack products have a limited pot life when mixed. Refer to label or technical data sheet for further information.
- Start somewhere where any application overlap will be less noticeable such as on the bow or the corner of the transom.
- For large surfaces, it's advised to use a roller as it's quicker and will achieve a uniform finish.
- If you’re applying product with a brush, a good technique is the criss-cross method.
- Paint is applied to the surface with diagonal brushing from left to right. It’s then spread further with horizontal strokes before finally laying off with light vertical strokes. This applies a uniform layer of paint and allows the brush marks to flow out better.
- Apply sufficient paint for the product to flow, but not so much to make it sag or run as it can be hard to remove them later. If you do see any sags or runs, brush them out as soon as possible.
5.5 Overcoating
- If you are applying more than 1 coat apply the subsequent coats in a similar fashion. If you’re applying another coat after the ‘recoat without sanding’ time (as per the data sheet or label instructions), sand the whole surface using 280 grit paper and dust down with a lint-free cloth or suitable tack rag.
5.6 Final sanding
- Once all the undercoats have been applied and cured, sand the entire surface using 320 - 400 grit paper. Make sure you don’t expose any primer. If you do, you’ll need to re-undercoat those areas and feather the edges back in once it’s cured to avoid the edge of the patch showing through to the final finish.
- The finish you obtain on this section will mirror exactly what you will see with the finish coat. Using a suitable Sanding Guide Coat will help you see where you have and haven’t sanded.
5.7 Clean surface
- Dust down with a lint-free cloth or suitable tack rag.
- If there is any risk that the surface has been contaminated with oil or grease (e.g. fingerprints), wipe with a suitable thinner prior to applying the topcoat.
Working with a roller:
- Applying paint with a roller is a fast method of covering large areas.
- For best results, use a high density, closed cell foam roller.
- Some rollers may be affected by solvents in the product and can swell during use. When they become too soft to use, or look like they are breaking up, replace them with a new one.
- When using a roller and tray, it’s a good idea to keep the tray covered loosely to avoid the wind, sun or air creating a skin over the paint during use.
- If the area to be painted is very small you can obtain smaller rollers from various hardware stores. Some are often called radiator rollers that are very good for small and difficult to get to areas.
Working with a brush:
- Brushes should be medium to large width typically 75-150mm with long flexible bristles.
- A smaller brush will be used for painting difficult to reach areas.
- Wash your brushes with the appropriate solvent and dry them thoroughly before using to avoid contamination.
- The quality of brushes required for undercoating should be the same as you will use for topcoating. Both natural bristle and synthetic brushes can be used.
- To minimise brush marks hold the brush at a 45 degree angle to the surface.
- To clean brushes, place some thinner inside a suitable container so you can clean it if the bristles start to clog due to curing or thickening of the paint.
Other useful tips:
- If you’re getting runs as the paint is applied, then it’s either too thin, or you’re applying too much.
- Avoid using paint directly from the can as this might introduce contamination and prematurely age the paint from solvent evaporation. Instead, pour what you’d expect to use in 30 minutes into a separate container.
- Old jam jars or clean dry tin cans are useful for mixing paint. Also, metal measuring spoons of various sizes you can buy from any supermarket, are ideal for measuring small quantities of paint and hardener for the smaller jobs.
- If any of the applied coats develops runs or sags (or has contamination in it) that you need to sand out, use 120-220 grit paper. Start with 220 grade and if it keeps clogging change to 120. Any coarser and you run the risk of removing too much product and/or sanding through to the substrate.
- Sanding paper 280 - 400 grit (various grades for undercoat application)
- Paint roller tray
- Paint rollers (suitable sizes and types)
- Paint brushes (suitable size)
- Tack rag or lint free cloth
- Safety shoes
- Face dust masks
- Hand protection (as per product SDS)
- Overalls
- Sanding machine and/or suitable sanding blocks
- Eye protection
Step 6 Applying topcoat finishes
6.1 For small repairs
- For small repairs such as scratches (where the remaining paint system is still in good condition), small or artist sized brushes may be suitable to apply the topcoat.
- Rollers may not be required if the area to be painted is very small but if required you can obtain smaller types from various hardware stores. Some are often called radiator rollers that are very good for small and difficult to reach areas.
- With any repair the area to be repainted will need to be larger than the actual repaired area so the paint system can be transitioned gradually to avoid sharp demarcation lines.
6.2 Mask off
- Mask off any areas that are not going to be painted such as fittings and the waterline with suitable masking tape.
6.3 Mixing
- Single pack products:
- With single pack topcoats, mix the paint thoroughly with a stirring stick ensuring that any settlement is well mixed in.
- With single pack topcoats, mix the paint thoroughly with a stirring stick ensuring that any settlement is well mixed in.
- Two pack products:
- If you are using a 2 pack topcoat, mix the individual components thoroughly.
- Combine the two products and mix the paint thoroughly as indicated on the datasheet or the label on the can. Two pack products have a limited pot life when mixed. Refer to label or technical data sheet for further information.
- If you are using a 2 pack topcoat, mix the individual components thoroughly.
- It is usually necessary to add solvents to aid application or improve flow. For the recommended solvent and the amount you need to add, please refer to the datasheet or the label on the can.
6.4 For small repairs again
- Apply the paint thinner towards the outer edges of the repair so reduces the edge thickness which will help make the repair less noticeable.
- You can achieve this by physically spreading the paint out further or thinning the paint with the brushing thinner recommended for the product. The thinned paint can be spread out more easily and will result in a thinner film. Thin between 5-10%.
6.5 Wipe down
- Wipe the surface with a tack rag to remove all final traces of dust.
6.6 Application
- Pour the paint into a clean roller tray or paint pot.
- Start somewhere where any application overlap will be less noticeable such as on the bow or the corner of the transom.
- Taking one or two square metres at a time, paint the masked off edges or difficult areas with a small brush first.
- The best method for applying topcoat to a larger area is by using a roller to apply it to the surface, and use a brush at a 45 degree angle to smooth out the wet paint (this called the roll and tip method).
- If you’re applying product with a brush, a good technique is the criss-cross method.
- Paint is applied to the surface with diagonal brushing from left to right. It’s then spread further with horizontal strokes before finally laying off with light vertical strokes. This applies a uniform layer of paint and allows the brush marks to flow out better.
- Apply sufficient paint for the product to flow, but not so much to make it sag or run as it can be hard to remove them later. If you do see any sags or runs, brush them out as soon as possible.
6.7 Overcoating
- If any of the coats you apply develops runs or sags, or has contamination in it that needs to be sanded out, use 320 grit.
- You can apply the next coat within the recommended overcoating time.
- For the best aesthetic results, we recommend a light sand between coats.
- If you exceed the maximum overcoating time, you must sand the surface with 320-400 before applying the next coat.
- If the surface has been sanded, wipe with a tack rag before applying the next coat.
6.8 Finishing up
- To clean equipment, use the recommended solvent from the datasheet or the label on the can.
- For waste disposal please refer to the top of this guide.
- After the final coat, remove any masking tape whilst the paint is still wet. This will give you a clean painted edge.
Important:
- It is possible that the repaired area may show a colour difference when compared to the original finish* To minimise colour differences, try and carry the repainted area out to defined panel edges or join lines; for example if you have repaired a transom then you could repaint the whole transom. If you are repairing a hatch repaint the whole hatch.
- If you have made a patch repair on one side of a hull only, then you might be faced with repainting all of that hull side as there are unlikely to be any suitable edges.
- It is not recommended that DIY painters attempt to cut and polish the edges of a repaired area. Doing so would lead to irreversible damage to the finish resulting in premature loss of gloss and possibly a greater colour change over-time. Products that are capable of being cut and polished are generally for professional use only.
Working with a roller:
- Applying paint with a roller is a fast method of covering large areas
- Rollers should be high density closed cell foam types to minimise formation of bubbles that can occur with mohair or large cell foam rollers.
- If rollering with felt or mohair rollers, wrap masking tape around a new roller and then pull off to remove any loose fibres.
- Some rollers may be affected by solvents in the product and can swell during use. When they become too soft to use, or look like they are breaking up, replace them with a new one.
- When using a roller and tray it is a good idea to keep the tray covered loosely to avoid the wind, sun or air creating a skin over the paint during use.
Working with a brush:
- Brushes should be medium to large width typically 75 – 150mm with long flexible bristles.
- A smaller 50mm brush will be used for painting around windows or any other fiddly detail.
- Wash your brushes with the thinner and dry them thoroughly before using to avoid contamination.
- When applying by brush, clean or change brushes after 20 minutes to avoid overloading with paint.
- Use a worn brush if possible for the final coat to ensure less brush marks.
- When tipping-off with a brush, put some thinner inside a container to clean the tipping brush should the bristles start to clog due to curing or thickened paint.
Other useful tips:
- If it is particularly hot or cold weather conditions, you can add a small amount of suitable thinner (no more than 10%) to help ease the application.
- If you’re getting runs as the paint is applied then it’s either too thin or you’re applying too much. If you’re seeing runs/sagging that occurs after 5-10 minutes, the paint is too thick and needs to be carefully thinned.
- Always use lint-free cloths/ tack rags.
- Never paint wearing wool clothing as the fibres can find their way into your work.
- Avoid using paint direct from the can as this may introduce contamination and prematurely age the paint from solvent evaporation. Pour the amount you expect to use in 30 minutes into a separate container.
- You may find some old jam jars or clean dry tin cans are useful for mixing paint. Also metal measuring spoons of various sizes from the supermarket are ideal for measuring small quantities of paint and hardener for the smaller jobs.
- Normally 2 - 3 coats of finish coat will be needed. After the first coat, assess how much product you used to help you work out how much you'll need to complete the job. Refer to label data for self-on-self re-coating times.
- Finishes can be applied using a brush and/or roller. stir and leave the mixed paint for around 10 minutes to allow bubbles to disperse.
- On a hull, it’s best to have two people working side-by-side. One applying vertically by roller and the second following along tipping off vertically with a brush whilst the paint is still wet enough to retain its wet edge.
* Original paint may have changed colour on exposure. Left over paint from a previous use if used may have drifted in colour on storage. New paint purchased (but from a different batch) may, due to manufacturing tolerances, vary in colour slightly. Application differences between old and new finish can also result in slight shade differences.
- Sanding paper 320 - 400 grit (various grades for topcoat application)
- Paint roller tray
- Paint rollers (suitable sizes and types)
- Paint brushes (suitable size)
- Tack rag or lint free cloth
- Safety shoes
- Face dust masks
- Hand protection (as per product SDS)
- Overalls
- Sanding machine and/or suitable sanding blocks
- Eye protection
We're here to help
We're ready to help. Our friendly helpdesk is open weekdays from 8:00 - 16:30. Call 01489 775062
Send an e-mail to iyp.uk@akzonobel.com
Whether you call or e-mail, please mention your paint guide reference: AW006